Question: I have an outdoor hanging basket of impatiens. Most of the petals have fallen off, but the remaining leaves and stems look healthy. Will it eventually produce more flowers?
Answer: Winter is not the best time for impatiens, but most impatiens will survive and look attractive if frost or freeze does not damage the plants. Under minimal care programs, it is not uncommon for plants to become spindly and lose old leaves. It is best to water when the soil surface becomes dry to keep it moist. Also, fertilize with liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks or spray the container with a slow-release product according to label directions. Even when temperatures are warm and drop to near freezing, plants remain green, leafy, and flowering. Toward the end of February, cut back spindly plants and continue watering and fertilizing. New growth should occur throughout the spring and summer with enough flowers to fill the container.
Q. I have a shady backyard, but the peace lily quit after four years. The bromeliad also declined even though I added a little water to the cup in the center of the leaf. Any ideas what to plant in this container?
A. Don’t give up on plants that have died in shady areas. There was probably a moisture problem. Try again with lovers of the same shade. Peace lilies need water once or twice a week, and bromeliads need water weekly during warmer months. Water so that the moisture seeps from the bottom of the container into the saucer. Bromeliads like to add water to the surface of the soil as well as to the center of the bromeliad, which has cup-shaped leaves. Understand that bromeliad plants will decline after a year or two, but they usually have branches to produce new plants. If this happens, repot the plant and remove the old part. Peace lilies usually require repotting, often dividing after one to two years. Other plants suitable for shady areas include aglaonema, dieffenbachia, dracaena, parlor palm, and sansevieria. All are very durable, but may require consistently warm temperatures to thrive.
Botanist: The best way to tell if an orange is ripe and ready to pick is a taste test.
Q. Some of the scheffleras growing outside my house are probably 20 feet tall. Can I go back to 5 feet or 6 feet? If so, in what month?
A. Winter weather can have a negative effect on Schefflera, so it’s best to wait until late February or early March to make any necessary pruning. The plant will produce new shoots from most areas along its thick stem where it once produced leaves. New shoots usually sprout just below the top of the stem where it is cut. So plan where to start new growth. Additional buds may start along the stem, but you can usually expect one strong growth from the top. Schefflera may also send out new stems from the base to form dense growths. If this occurs, gardeners may prefer to remove the unwanted growth.
Q. I planted caladium bulbs in a container over the summer, but the tops have died. Should I remove the bulb or leave it in the container?
A. It’s probably a question of what you want to do with your containers. If you want to repot for seasonal color, it’s best to remove the bulbs. Bulbs are actually compressed stems called tubers. In this case, expect a large number of tubers to form, which you will collect and store in dry peat moss or vermiculite. Store in a warm place with low light. During March, you can replant in a new container of potting soil or in your garden plot. If you don’t need a container, store the bulbs in soil. Place the container in a dimly lit, but warm place. Lightly moisten the soil from time to time. Some of the soil may have decomposed, so a new layer may be needed in late February or before growth begins. Apply a slow-release fertilizer when you see new growth, and begin watering the plant regularly about twice a week in a sunny location.
Q. Annual weeds are an ongoing problem in our shrub beds. How can we prevent their growth?
A. Maintaining and renewing the mulch layer can reduce the presence of weed seeds that germinate, but some will still remain. Do not remove old mulch and add a light topping if needed. The use of pre-emergent herbicides is also effective. Several granular products are available at your local garden center. Plantings usually need to be established before spraying, so follow label instructions. Also, time must pass before new plantings can be added. Repeated applications are required to continue weed control as stated on the label. Some mulches have built-in herbicides to help control weeds.
January in Central Florida Gardens
Q. I planted my broccoli in my cool-season garden sometime in October, and everything is going well except for the edges of the lower leaves of the broccoli that are turning yellow. what is happening?
A. It sounds like you have a great garden, but sometimes you have a problem with one type of plant. Only the older broccoli leaves seem to be affected, so a nutritional deficiency is probably starting to become apparent. Deficiency is often first seen in older leaves. Apply a liquid fertilizer for immediate effectiveness, followed by a slow-release granular fertilizer about a week later. In the garden, it’s also helpful to add mulch to keep the soil evenly moist and help absorb nutrients. It also prevents soil from splashing onto the leaves, which can spread microorganisms that affect the leaves.
Q. I often hear that Petunia needs a Deadhead. Is it really necessary?
A. Some gardeners try to remove dead petunia flowers, a process known as deadheading, but most people quickly learn that it’s a hassle. Modern petunias are fairly self-cleaning and as the flowers fade they deteriorate and become less noticeable. Some gardeners cut their plants back after the long stems of older flowers die back and seed pods begin to form. This treatment, combined with fertilizer application, can stimulate new growth and flowers for spring.
Tom McCubbin is an emeritus urban horticulturist for the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service. Write to Orlando Sentinel, PO Box 2833, Orlando, FL. 32802. Email: TomMac1996@aol.com.
