Q: When I was watering my container-grown croton, I noticed ants in the clumps in the center of the leaves. What are they doing? Do they need control?
A: Your Croton is full of bugs. I noticed the ants, but even more difficult to see were the soft scale insects that live on the leaves and stems. These insects lie flat against the plant parts and are very bright green, yellow, or brown in color. In fact, ants may be attracted to you by eating scale insect excrement. It’s probably best to have neither in Croton. Therefore, controls may be required. To control scale insects, use horticultural oil sprays according to label instructions available at independent garden centers. Some people prefer to use neem oil spray, which also acts as an insect repellent. And by controlling the scales, you may be able to keep ants away. If necessary, follow label directions to kill ants and scale insects with a common garden insecticide made for use on ornamental plants.
Q: My pepper plants are green and still producing fruit. What does it take to keep growing all summer long?
A: Most peppers are hardy plants and can often survive several growing seasons. Allow your plants to continue growing in the sun. Keep the soil moist and maintain a light mulch layer. Fertilize every three to four weeks with a general garden fertilizer or a slow-release product labeled for vegetables. Support pepper plants to prevent stems from breaking during summer storms. If you’re careful, you can keep eating peppers all winter long.
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Q: My Agapanthus is not blooming. It usually blooms in May, but you won’t even see the buds. Do you think freezing has something to do with this?
A: Some agapanthus may have fallen victim to the February freeze. However, plants near me are flowering in temperatures of 24 degrees Fahrenheit and prolonged exposure to freezing temperatures. Photos of the plants sent via email show that they are healthy, but you can see that the leaves are smaller and less green than usual. This is probably more of a cultural issue than cold. Apply slow-release chemical fertilizer from now until early October. Keep the plant moist until fall, but don’t get it too wet. Spring-blooming flower buds are formed from late summer to autumn. There may still be some flowers in bloom, but I hope they will be in full bloom next year.
Q: My pineapple seedlings are turning yellow and wilting. can they be saved?
A: Your plants may still be suffering from the cold from last winter when temperatures dropped below freezing. This can cause plant decline, including yellowing of the leaves and eventually browning of the main parts. These leaves are usually lost, but new buds with green leaves sprout from the base. I hope this applies to your plants as well. If you water and fertilize the new shoots, they will produce the expected fruit in one to two years.
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Q: The gladiolus bulbs I planted last fall have bloomed and the leaves have turned from yellow to brown. Will the flowers bloom again?
A: This is the normal growth order of gladioli plants after flowering, so there is no need to worry. After the bulbs have rested, they will bloom again. When it turns brown, cut off the top and leave the bulb in the ground, or dig it up and store it in a shady, dry, well-ventilated place for several months. You can repot in the fall or late winter.
Q: My Cherokee Purple tomato variety is flowering but not producing fruit. Has the fruiting season ended because of the heat?
A: Yes, the heat is preventing most tomato varieties from setting fruit. Cherokee Purple is a very popular and delicious heirloom variety that is sensitive to temperatures consistently above 85 degrees. Even under ideal growing conditions, it produces small but large fruits. Your cherry or grape tomatoes may continue to produce some fruit for the summer. The next planting time for all tomato varieties is mid-August for fall harvest. Start sowing seeds in mid-July to get them ready for transplanting.
Q: I would like to save up some money and grow new coleus from the coleus I have in my garden. How do I get started?
A: Start coleus plants in loose potting soil or coarse vermiculite containers because they are easy to root. Tear off the ends of the shoots and remove a few lower leaves to create cuttings 4 to 6 inches long. Stick the cuttings about 2 inches deep in a small container of soil or vermiculite. You can also collect and root cuttings in a large container or tray. They root very easily, so it may be best to put them in individual pots with soil. The trick to rooting coleus is to keep the cuttings moist and surround them with clear plastic in a shady area. Roots should begin to appear in about 2 to 3 weeks. Once roots begin to form, loosen the plastic and your new plant should be ready to be planted in the shade garden in about 6 to 8 weeks. Once the plants begin to establish, apply a half-strength water-soluble fertilizer weekly until they are added to the landscape location.
Q: My Sunpeichen grows in the sun and dies every afternoon. Watering will give you energy. Do they not like the sun or do they need more water?
A: Attractive and very colorful, Sunpatiens may struggle in the full Florida summer sun. What you will notice is that they typically wilt in the hot afternoon sun. If grown in hot sunlight, leaves may scorch. A location that receives morning sunlight until around 11 a.m., and sunlight or shade in the afternoon is suitable. Sunpatiens also seem to need more water to keep the leaves moist and encourage flowering. Plants in containers may require daily watering to maintain moist soil. Check the soil condition and water when the surface becomes dry.
Tom McCubbin is an emeritus urban horticulturist for the University of Florida Cooperative Extension Service. Write to Orlando Sentinel, PO Box 2833, Orlando, FL. 32802. Email: TomMac1996@aol.com.
