The city, and especially the Thornton Park neighborhood, has been eagerly awaiting Osteria Ester’s opening since it was announced in September as the next restaurant to line up at this classic corner location.
“When I came in in the morning, there were face marks on the glass where people were looking,” said Sue Chin, part of the James Beard Award-nominated Good Salt restaurant group in Orlando. The restaurant welcomed friends, family and other guests last week as part of final preparations.
Her husband, Jason Chin, said it was a “complete whirlwind.”
“We took over the space, we blinked, and it was Thanksgiving.”
Fittingly, the Chin couple, along with chef and partner Michael Cooper, are pleased to welcome guests to Osteria Estelle’s soft opening on Tuesday (December 9th).
This is Good Salt’s sixth concept and the second of two openings in 2025 (Sparrow’s Nest grand opening in September), and it’s a complete departure from past menus with a comforting spin on Italian-American classics. This is a love letter from Cooper not only to Orlando, but also to his grandmother, the place’s namesake.
You might think that means you’ll be getting a taste of Estelle’s beloved recipe, but you’d be wrong.
“No one in my family can cook, especially my grandmother!” Cooper said with a laugh when the concept was announced. “But she was the glue of the family…a very special woman.”
Raised in New Jersey, Cooper’s new menu pays homage to the area’s beloved neighborhood red sauce joint.
That means hearty dishes like lasagna rotolo and pappardelle bolognese, which are big enough to share.
Unlike neighboring June, which is influenced by Mexican cuisine, where the menu is virtually gluten-free, Osteria Estelle, which serves handmade breads and pastas, is as carb-friendly as possible. The current menu includes four types of bread: focaccia, gnocco fritto, pizzette, and crostini.
It’s a far cry from previous Good Salt offerings such as Seito Sushi Baldwin Park, The Monroe and Reyes Mezcaleria, “but that’s kind of what we’ve been doing,” says Jason Chin. “This was especially fun, really personal to Chef Cooper, and very exciting.”
Good Salt Restaurant Group’s Osteria Estelle replaces Thornton Park’s Soco
He also notes that building something new in a third-generation space can be difficult (“often you don’t know what you’re inheriting”). But for someone with this history, it’s an honor. This space was originally home to Hue, holding the spot for 10 years until Soco Thornton Park slipped into the next decade.
The restaurant partnership between Good Salt and Craig and Charlotte Ustler will ensure this corner of Thornton Park remains a vibrant, community-driven destination, the news release said.
And something gorgeous. Hsu Qing’s eye for design, not to mention his artistry, is excellent. The mural artwork depicting the silhouettes of the Sorrento Peninsula’s iconic trees is classic yet playful, with warm tones and amber lighting.
Since their announcement in September, Thornton Park has welcomed them with open arms, the Chins say.
“It feels like I’ve been here for years,” Jason Chin said. “There were nights when I couldn’t get any work done because people would show up unexpectedly and give tours.”
Now there are chairs and tables and music. There’s food and drinks. There are reflections in the rustling of guests and the clinking of glasses.
“Building an addition means a lot of dreaming and work,” Jason Chin said, looking around.
“This is where it all ends up. When you see it come to life, that’s the most rewarding thing. It’s just incredible. We’re so excited to be here.”
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Osteria Estelle
Soft opening hours: Tuesday through Saturday from 5pm to 10pm. Reservations: opentable.com/r/osteria-ester-orlando. There is street parking nearby. Paid parking is available in the Thornton Park Central Garage (building in the back).
For more information: 629 E. Central Blvd. In Orlando, 407-203-3577;osteriaester.com
