A few years ago, in Orlando, Ryan Latino fueled rockets that launched him into other markets, cutting down time at locations such as Walt Disney World’s Swan and Dolphin’s Bull & Bear and Todd English’s Blue Zoo.
Out of business hours, Le Cordon Bleu Grade had pawned Park Avenue, immersed himself in favourites like Luma and Prato, dreaming of opening his place.
He laughs at his memory.
“Of course, that was when I had zero money and cooked it for something like $10 an hour.”
James Bearded Worth 2025: Central Florida running with six semi-finalists
Last year, Latino returned to Winter Park and opened up joy by Yount with three Michelin stars under his talk.
The adults then won a James beard nomination. Not surprising, it is marked for selection by Michelin.
And while the designation remains a mystery until the April 17th ceremony at Four Seasons Resort Orlando, you won’t be surprised if it becomes Florida’s second two-star venue.
For the time being, the talented team must settle down to be the 2025 pick of the Orlando Sentinel Foodie Awards Best New Restaurant.
I made the decision based on many factors, including foie gras donuts, silky soy milk chawon siss, and beyond the star service, but before Latino learns that Tortino’s pizza counts the rolls in his list of most crushable foods.
“There was a time when I could eat a bag of 50 counts at a time,” he says. “Not 12, not 50!”
It didn’t shake me. Rather, it threw home the playfulness that is inherent in the theatrical experience.
This contemporary French restaurant offers three options. One holds what Japanese ingredients are shaking.
Fish from Tokyo’s rich market and Wagyu beef from Florida local providers have succumbed to the team’s techniques in the braising of sauces, consoms and bones. And you’ll be hooked on Far Eastern flavors – Misos, Rice Vinegars, nasty spectra of soybeans, bright, dark and double fuel.
Whether you choose to go on an excursion (now $145 per person), travel ($195), or Jaunt ($375), each will take guests from the gorgeous, sexy living room. There, sip it in a foamy way with the snacks.
“Three rooms: three different environments,” says Latino. We look at the energy shift and the excitement of interacting with new team members in each space. From music (my night, hip-hop in the 90s) to movement, all of this helps create a less intimidating environment, he says.
“Sometimes… people hear two Michelin stars and I think they have to wear suits. I promise you, you won’t,” he says. “I want people to feel good, have fun, laugh and have fun. We try to make it lively and lively. We don’t want it to be this overly exaggerated.”
The young patron at the chef’s counter chose chopsticks from the box the night I was there. They glowed like petite lightsabers.
The House of Pain jumped to the speaker.
I did a liquor flight ($95 as part of the field trip). This is a sacred choice poured from Juan Valencia sommeliers and lumas, alumni of the park, culminating in the Shirakawa Cowboys, which include the square and brewed using traditional Yamahai methods.
wonderful? yes. It wasn’t overly exaggerated.
In fact, even the most fashionable drink add-ons recorded in places between $285 and $595 depending on your dining experience are called “f*** it pairing.”
Alternatively, you should probably exclude anyone who doesn’t choose to act as an online test balloon and combine DJ lethal with suffocating nanatsuboshi rice with a dungeon crab suffocating with shaved truffles.
You’re already here, you read the menu, so maybe you too…
https://www.orlandosentinel.com/2025/03/07/foodie-awards-sorekara-and-mills-mals-mils-share-share-of-the year-honors/
That’s exactly how we felt when they offered a slice of Japanese crown melon as a $30 add-on. Explains the growth philosophy of “one tree, one fruit.” Farmers can grow each plant and deliver all their nutrients and resources to a single, perfectly sweet specimen.
In a gentle and educational pitch, we learned that these melons wear special hats to prevent sun spots, that they are hand soups, and that each is shipped to their own small red pillows to keep them completely round after harvest.
Does “f*** it” sound like Michelin? That boogie melon – it was legitimately exquisite – certainly does.
And it would be hard to argue that Latino, a star-studded DC venue sitting under the same roof, hasn’t cracked the cord.
He says the difference between one and two Michelin starred restaurants comes down to detail, or magic.
“That’s what we’re calling it,” Latino points out. “Magic. It separates one, two-star restaurant.”
He says the service level at the district’s cheerful two-star restaurants cannot be repeated at a large number of venues like the downstairs sister Bresca.
“The details we do at Jônt and ômo are not overlapping in Bresca. There’s no way,” he explains. “The labor will go through the roof. We need a box and lid and a whole squad of people dedicated to personalizing the experience for our guests.”
And when the team achieves three stars, it is a product developed over time.
“To hit it, you have to cook at a very high level for years. It’s a huge leap. It’s very rare. Consistency over time, quality over time, continuous execution of excellence, always.”
At just 34 years old, Latino has plenty of time.
Michelin Guide inspectors will call in April. The Omo team will also learn whether they will continue as a finalist at the James Beard Foundation Awards held in Chicago in June.
Michelin Guide adds four Orlando restaurants to your list
Latino is pleased that he is proud to acknowledge his crew whom he has worked with for over a decade.
“They’re the best,” he says with emphasis. “Our head chef and GM, Sous chef, cooking team, service team. They’re all incredible. They’re going to make the restaurant the way it is now, continue to develop it and grow into what it will be.
He is pleased to return to Orlando. He was a place he was sure he wanted to be and has never seen anywhere else.
“This is a full-sake moment,” he says. Looking back on my night walk, my dream was hatched on Park Avenue.
And my poor diet? It was ruined forever. He will never eat another supermarket melon again.
Critics’ Choice
Winners: Jômo, 115 E. Lyman Ave, Winter Park, 321-972-5225; omobyjont.com
Reader’s choice
Winners: Crazy Cork Wine Bar, 940 City Plaza Way in Oviedo, 407-473-9902. thecrazycorkwinebar.com
Runner-up: Aloha Hawaii Inn Kitchen and F-talked-about coffee and pastries
2025 Foodie Awards: Click here to see all the winners!
Find me on Facebook, X, Instagram (@Amydroo) or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com. For more fun, join Let’s Eat and Orlando Facebook Group.
