By Sam Mednick
NZARA County, South Sudan (AP) — Katherine Basiama runs his fingers along the branches of a coffee tree that he grew with concern since planting three years ago. When she grips the beam of a small cherry, the vasiama.
The farmers never cultivated coffee in villages in western South Sudan, but they hope that a now-unusual climate-resistant species will help her family get away from poverty. “I want to send my kids to school so they can become future generations,” said Basiama, a 12-year-old mother.
Discovered in South Sudan more than a century ago, Excelsa Coffee is a local, captivated by exciting cash, and attracts attention from the international community amid the global coffee crisis caused primarily by climate change. Prices have skyrocketed to decades as major coffee producers struggle to grow crops in dry and unreliable weather, and the industry has fought for solutions.
Experts say that estimates for drought-stricken Brazil, the world’s top coffee grower, could see a fall in the harvest this year by around 12%.
“What history shows us is that sometimes the world doesn’t give you a choice, and there are many coffee farmers struggling with climate change, which are now facing this predicament,” said Aaron Davis, director of coffee research at Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew, London.
Excelsa can play an important role in adaptation.
The natives of South Sudan and a few other African countries, including the Congo, the Central African Republic and Uganda, are also cultivated in India, Indonesia and Vietnam. The deep roots of the tree, thick leathery leaves, and large trunks can thrive under extreme conditions such as drought and heat in places where other coffee is not possible. It is also resistant to many common coffee pests and diseases.
However, it consists of less than 1% of the global market, which is quite behind the seeds of Arabica and Robusta, the world’s most consumed coffee. Experts say Excelsa must be shown to be practical on a much larger scale to fill the market gap caused by climate change.
The history of coffee in South Sudan
Unlike its neighbouring Ethiopia and Uganda, South Sudan, rich in oil, has never been known as a coffee producer.
British colonists grew Robusta and Arabica, many of which stopped during decades of conflict, forcing people out of their homes, making farming difficult. Coffee trees require regular care such as pruning and weeding, and take at least three years to produce fruit.
When he visited Nuzara County in western Exteria earlier this month, it was considered a state-running ship – residents reminded Associated Press reporters that their parents and grandparents are growing coffee, but many of the younger generations haven’t done it.
Many were familiar with Excelsa, but they didn’t understand how unique it was or what it was called. It refers to a larger tree that is usually taller than Arabica or Robusta seeds, which are pruned like bush or hedges. Excelsa trees can reach 15 meters (about 49 feet) tall, but may be pruned much shorter to facilitate harvesting.
Unlike Robusta, coffee, made from Excelsa, has a sweet taste with notes of chocolate, dark fruit and hazelnut. It is similar to Arabica, but in general there are fewer bitters and sometimes the body is less.
“Little is known about this coffee, so I feel like I’m on the forefront of trying to figure it out. We learn every day,” said Ian Paterson, managing director of Evatoria Teak, a sustainable agricultural leaching company that has been operating in the country for over a decade.
The company has been holding trials on Excelsa for many years. The company said the initial results were promising, and that the tree can withstand much better heat than other species. They are also working with the community to revive the coffee industry and expand production. Three years ago, he gave saplings and training to about 1,500 farmers, including Basiama, to help grow coffee. Farmers can sell back to the company for processing and export.
Many of the trees will begin production for the first time this year, and Patterson hopes to export the first batch of about 7 tons to specialty stores in Europe. By 2027, coffee could inject around $2 million into the economy, with interest being expressed by large buyers such as Nespresso. But for large buyers to be worth the investment, he said production needs to triple.
The challenge of growing industry amidst the instability of South Sudan
It could be challenging in South Sudan. In South Sudan, lack of infrastructure and anxiety makes it difficult to serve coffee.
A 30 tonne of coffee truck will need to travel around 1,800 miles (3,000 km) to arrive at Kenya’s port. The initial war of that trip through Uganda costs over $7,500, and costs up to five times more in neighbouring countries.
Also, it’s difficult to attract investors.
The pockets of combat continue despite the 2018 peace agreement, which ended a five-year civil war. Tensions in western exteria are particularly high after the president eliminated the governor in February. When Associated Press reporters visited Nzara, the main road to the town was one day blocked due to gunshots and people fleeing the village.
The government says businesses can run safely, but warned them to focus on their businesses.
“If I’m a businessman, if I’m dealing with my business, I won’t mix with politics. “Alison Barnabas, the state’s Minister of Agriculture and Forestry Environment, said:
Barnabas said there are plans to rehabilitate the old coffee plantation and build an agricultural school, but details are muddy, including where the money comes from. South Sudan has not paid civil servants for more than a year, and the bursting of a critical oil pipeline through adjacent Sudan tanks oil revenues.
Cultivating coffee is not always easy. Farmers must fight fires that spread quickly and destroy crops during the dry season. Hunters use fire to scare and kill animals, and residents use it to clean the land for cultivation. However, fires can get out of control and there are few steps to keep people accountable, residents say.
Coffee as a way out of poverty
Still, for locals, coffee represents an opportunity for a better future.
Basiama said she began planting coffee after her husband was injured and unable to help her grow enough corn and crushed nuts that her family lived in. She said she has not been able to send her children to school or buy enough food since his accident.
Another farmer, 37-year-old Taban John, wants to use his coffee income to buy a bike. He also hopes he can afford school uniforms for his children.
Excelsa is an opportunity for communities to become more economically independent, community leaders say. People rely on government and foreign aid, but when it doesn’t come, they can’t take care of their families, they say.
But for coffee to flourish in South Sudan, locals say they need long-term mentality and stability.
Areabox fired half of its coffee crop in early February and fired it. He plans to replace it, but was dissing the work it needed and the lack of laws and orders that would keep people accountable.
“People don’t think long term in the war like coffee crops,” he said. “Coffee needs peace.”
Associated Press Climate and Environmental Insurance receives financial support from several private foundations. He receives financial support from the Gates Foundation for global health and development compensation in Africa. AP is solely responsible for all content. Find AP standards for working with Ap.org supporters and charities, a funded coverage area.
Original issue: March 3, 2025, 12:45pm EST
