Looking back 10 years seems a little surreal, says Juliana Calloway.
“It feels like two years ago and 20 years ago happened at the same time.”
Running a small business is often a rough ride, but few can boast the roller-coaster experience that Black Rooster Taqueria has. Black Rooster Taqueria, helmed by Calloway and her husband John, opened a small shop in February 2016 at 1323 North Mills Avenue.
Two years later, having solidified a local following, the humble restaurant was first featured in the New York Times’ travel series “36 Hours.” This was a huge success that helped raise the profile of 407 beyond just gourmet food. An appearance on the Travel Channel that same year further fueled a seemingly unstoppable momentum.
Then COVID-19 hit and sunk many struggling businesses. Black Rooster pulled out of the rip current and brought stranded people together with margaritagrams delivered to their door.
“That kind of got us through some really tough times,” she recalls.
“We’re so grateful to Mills 50 and the Orlando community, who were and still are huge supporters. We (still) have customers who come two or three times a week, and that’s really special. We never take it for granted.”
Surviving the virus has made them even stronger, as evidenced by their big leap forward in 2022, including being named to the Michelin Guide and securing a space at Orlando City’s Inter&Co Stadium.
For Callaway, who is Colombian (“soccer is part of my DNA,” she says), it may be difficult to choose which was better.
“Whenever John and I travel, we always use the Michelin Guide to choose where we can eat,” she explains. “We’re just a small taqueria…so for us, it was incredibly special.”
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The same was true at the Inter & Company counter, where her family was already season ticket holders.
“It was already great to have families together every game, so it was huge for the Black Roosters to be there.”
Speaking of which, their family grew up with the business.
His son Ryder, whom Callaway calls his chief tasting officer, was only 3 years old in 2016. Daughter Lily was born a little later. Now 7 years old, “she’s a self-proclaimed guacamole connoisseur.” She’s loved it since she was a baby.
Being part of a restaurant family can be challenging, but also rewarding.
“It’s great when they come to help out at restaurants and special occasions like Cinco de Mayo.”
Even for those who have achieved it, even if they put their heart and soul into it, success is not guaranteed.
“It’s a lot,” she admits. “Small business owners don’t have sick days. We’re open when we open, we’re open when we close. Weekends and holidays are the same.”
Ricardo Ramirez Buxeda/Orlando Sentinel
Juliana Calloway, owner of Orlando’s Black Rooster Taqueria, and her then-7-year-old son Ryder Calloway created the Margarita Glam packaging during the 2020 COVID-19 pandemic. The Margarita Glam concept has allowed people to send drinks and spirits to their loved ones during lockdown. (Ricardo Ramirez Buxeda/Orlando Sentinel)
She says her husband bears most of this burden.
“We don’t have a headquarters. The profit margins are so low that if something breaks, John has to try and fix it. It’s been tough.”
A case in point is Black Roosters Curry Ford store, which closed in 2024 less than three years after opening.
“But Mills has always been good,” Callaway says.
At least, this is one constant in a decade that has seen so much change.
“We’ve seen so many places close, but at the same time new places are opening up all over the place,” she points out.
“As a small business owner, it’s great to see people still taking the plunge and bringing new ideas to the table. I think it speaks volumes about Orlando’s diverse dining scene, because it’s really tough out there.”
Calloway said rising costs for rent and necessities, along with insurance premiums and taxes, are making it difficult to continue living.
“You want to be a place that pays a living wage and takes care of your team, but that’s really difficult,” she said, noting that it’s more common than most people realize that owners don’t pay a salary at all.
“I want to stay in business,” she says.
“There are good times and bad times in the year, but we’ve been really lucky to be in Go,” she says, once again praising the community and its support.
That connection dates back to before they relocated to The City Beautiful from Taco’s home base of San Diego, connecting with local influencers and gaining local knowledge. And we make connections with once established foods.
In fact, when the Callaways were getting into the weeds, it was at an early East End Market pop-up venue that they met taco scarf-wearing Stephen LoFalo.
“He saw we needed help, turned his hat back and jumped back in there with us. John hired him on the spot.”
Lofaro was an integral part of their growth, she says. “And it all happened because of this local connection, this event we had in the East End.”
Such was the case when content guru Julius Mayo Jr. (better known online as Droolius) tipped them off about an upcoming off-site restaurant space on Mills Avenue.
Not long after, Mayo’s knowledge of the restaurant industry led them to a Mills Avenue store that was being put up for sale.
After that, the area exploded into a culinary hotbed, and Orlando’s culinary history was being made. Callaway laughs at the turn of events.
“When we first opened, a lot of people said our store was too expensive,” she says.
Years later, on the verge of Michelin certification, Orlando Magazine featured Black Rooster on its Cheap Eats list of affordable eateries.
Calloway laughs, but also points out that growing awareness of things like organic corn and local sourcing is helping to change perceptions over time.
Brand awareness continues to increase. Black Rooster Taqueria will join the roster of brands currently serving the Kia Center in 2024, and for now, Callaway says the plan is to just keep trucking along.
“We love being where we are, doing what we can control, and continuing to bring out new foods,” she says. “We are focused on our family and spending as much time together as possible.”
Find me on Facebook, TikTok, Twitter, Instagram @amydroo or the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com, and for more foodie fun, join our Let’s Eat, Orlando Facebook group.
Black Rooster 10th Anniversary Special
February 26: On this date, margaritas are only $2.26.
February 27th: All guests receive a free guac card.
And on both days, the first 10 people who sign up for lunch and the first 10 people to sign up for dinner (that’s important!) will receive a limited-edition 10th anniversary keychain with 10% off your entire bill for the rest of the year. The limited edition jersey style shirt is available ($35) while supplies last.
